CANAL BOATS IN ENGLAND

If you are looking for a holiday that is restful and relaxing, and far from the maddening crowds, then consider renting a narrow boat and cruising the canals of England and Wales. No boating experience is required as the hire companies give first- timers a half hour of instruction, and then you're off. The boats are steel, virtually indestructible, and only go about 8 km/h. These lovely craft are equipped with every modern convenience, including hot showers, fully equipped kitchens and colour tv - rather like a Canadian motor home but far from the stress and noise of highways, Our holiday began in the lovely market town of Whitchurch, and ten minutes after leaving this base we were deep into the English countryside. Hours passed with no sign or sound of civilization. We cruised down canals lined with old oaks,silent but for the songs of birds and the splashing of ducks and swans. We drifted by farm houses and hillsides sprinkled with sheep and chatted with the people on board each canal boat that passed from the other direction. We soon learned that canal boaters are very friendly and endlessly patient and helpful. We recommend setting off in a party of three or four as that makes the various tasks easy and fun. Two crew members can share the steering while one can jump off and on to raise the lift bridges- a very simple task - and the fourth can make the tea. Whenever one of us waned a bit of exercise we could simply step off onto the bank and walk along beside the boat. An easy walking pace wold soon leave the boat far behind, but when it did catch up you simply stepped back aboard. We were a bit worried about going through the various locks, but they are so well designed that in ten minutes we had mastered them. They are so simple that one person can open and close the gates while the second controls the boat. However, we found that two people on the locks made the whole thing fun and very quick. This would be important in the busy summer months, when you can get traffic jams at popular locks. Then canal etiquette rules that three boats go up and then traffic switches and three boats go down. Rather like our merging lanes, when we take our turn in line. One hint, take a pair of gloves along. Opening and closing the canal gates is not hard, but it can take its toll on the hands. The highlight of the canal that we travelled on - from WHitchurch to Llangollen, Wales and return-was the world famous Pontcyslite aqueduct. Built during the Industrial Revolution to carry freight boats it now carries narrow boats of awed visitors from England into Wales. The tall stone arches of the aqueduct carry the canal 300 metres across the valley and 36 metres above the river Dee. It is a heart stopping experience, but one to reflect on and savour. It left us with a tremendous respect for those early engineers. Once across the aqueduct, the canal carried boaters through the hills and valley of Wales to the charming town of Llangollen, with its steam train and fabulous teashops and bakeries. We bought the most delicious sausages here and tried our first Welsh 'oggies'. They are like a Cornish pasty but much larger and bursting with onions, meat and rich gravy. Exercising away the calories is as easy as taking them on, and just as much fun. From the town centre, a short walk along the valley floor leads to the ruins of a monastery, one of hundreds destroyed by Henry VIII. The west wall, with its rose window, is still standing, so you can imagine how beautiful it must once have been. A second hike to a nearby hilltop takes visitors to the ruins of a Norman castle. From this high ground the armies of William the Conqueror could watch the border and subdue the countryside. On the journey back to Whitchurch you travel with the current, which means you have the right of way - a piece of boating knowledge we picked up! This time we stopped at the waterside pubs we had missed on the outward journey and picked different spots to tie up for the night. Boaters are free to tie up almost anywhere along the canals. There are many places where tie-up rings are set into the banks, but you are provided with steel pegs that give you the freedom to pick your own spot as well. Many boaters stop at the 'Poacher's Pocket' for a good meal, and then tie up in the town of Chirk and hike to nearby Chirk Castle. Boaters know when they are approaching Chirk as the air becomes rich with the small of chocolate. Alas, they do not give tours of the chocolate factory but if the day is warm you can pick up picnic supplies in the town and enjoy a wonderful Cornish pasty in the fabulous gardens of the castle. The gardens give a view over four counties, and there is not an industrial city in sight! The best times to go are the spring and fall, as rates are very reasonable and the canals are far less crowded. your travel agent can advise you, and there are excellent web sites as well.

 

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